Either by ship or by plane: there is no third way

Sardinia is an island, and that changes the planning more than anything else. Anyone coming with a motorhome or a caravan must book the ferry months ahead for the middle of the summer, and must reckon that the August price is more than twice the June one.

By ferry

The island's ports are Olbia and Golfo Aranci in the north-east, Porto Torres in the north-west, Arbatax in the east, Cagliari in the south. Sailings leave from Genoa, Livorno, Piombino, Civitavecchia and Naples; crossings run from five hours, Civitavecchia to Olbia, to thirteen from Genoa to Porto Torres. Overnight sailings with a cabin save a day.

It is worth choosing the port by quadrant: Olbia for the Gallura and the north-east coast, Porto Torres for Alghero and Castelsardo, Arbatax for the Gulf of Orosei, Cagliari for the south and the mines. Landing at the wrong port means three extra hours on the road straight off the ship.

By plane

There are three airports: Cagliari Elmas, Olbia Costa Smeralda and Alghero Fertilia. They are well connected with Italy and with Europe, but anyone arriving by air then has to hire a car, and in July and August the hire cars run out early.

On the island

The SS131 Carlo Felice crosses Sardinia from Cagliari to Porto Torres and is a fast dual carriageway. The SS125 Orientale Sarda follows the east coast: it is scenic and has been partly rebuilt, but on the old stretches it is narrow and full of bends. The inland roads are slow, and in the Barbagia you travel at forty for long stretches.